Shape It Up

Let’s talk about serving face! We can serve face in many different forms and fashions. We can serve face in a natural and simplistic way, we can serve face in a glamorous way and we can serve face in an over the top fabulous way. All forms are beautiful works of art and our face is the canvas.

One aspect of serving face is how we conceal or highlight our face. Concealer is what we put on our faces after we have applied our foundation to draw attention to certain parts of our face. It helps create structure. Ideally, we conceal under our eyes, our foreheads, chins and under our cheekbone contour. As I have stated before with other forms of makeup application, applying concealer should be done according to face shape. Who would’ve thought!? We are not all Mrs. Potato Head, meaning our faces are not one size fits all. Let me explain! I have an Oblong shaped face. My face is almost twice as long than it is wide. Other face shapes include, oval, heart, diamond, rectangle, round, and square. If you are unsure as to what your face shape is, really think about your face shape like a geometric shape.

Oval: Face is a longer than it is wide (not twice as long).

Heart: Cheeks are wider than hairline.

Diamond: Hairline is narrower than cheeks.

Rectangle: Width of hairline and jawline are about just about even.

Round: Face is about as wide as it is long.

Square: Face is about as long as it is wide.

Where we place our concealer on our face will determine what we highlight on our face. It will also help to determine what type of structure we are trying to create or enhance. So, if your face is wider than it is long, you would not bring your concealer all the way out to your hairline. It will make your face appear wider. Side note: We can conceal our faces the way we want to, but this is a guideline. It should be noted that there are some exceptions to the rule. You could have an oblong face with a small forehead, in that case, go ahead and highlight it. Or maybe a heart-shaped face with a large chin, don’t highlight it.

Just as important as where we place our concealer is the color of our concealer. Typically, our concealer or highlight should not be more than 1-2 shades lighter than our foundation color, however if you are going for a really dramatic look, 3 shades lighter may work with great blending skills. You will have to blend for your life or else you take the chance of looking like a reverse raccoon. Concealer that is too light and not blended well may also look like flashback through a camera lens and so can setting powder that is too light and not well blended. Ladies….THAT IS NOT A GOOD LOOK!!

Moving right along to contouring. Contouring helps to create structure as well. How you might ask!? Contouring creates shading or a shadow when placed properly on our face that adds dimension. Cheekbones and noses are constructed with proper contouring. Just as specific as we have to be with placement of highlight or concealer, it’s the same with contouring. Contouring just as concealer should not be any more than 2 shades darker than your foundation color or you risk looking like you have dirt on your face. Placement of contouring especially on the cheek area can be a delicate situation. Contouring can make or break the structure of the cheekbone area. Contouring placed too low on the cheek may create a McGruff the Crime Dog look. Issa NO for me Dog! (In my best Randy Jackson voice) Seriously, it’s not a good look and less is more if you’re unsure of placement. Placement too high defeats the purpose as well. If you highlighted an area on your face, it is probably safe to contour around that same area to help create structure and depth. Once your contour is applied it must be blended very well so that the entire look is seamless.

As always, continue to live fabulously and remember because God is within you, you will not fail!!